How to Install Metal Roofing: What You Need to Know
Thinking about metal roofing installation? Smart choice. Metal roofs last 40-70 years, handle storms better than shingles, and look sharp. But here's the deal: installing metal roofing is not a DIY project.
This guide breaks down how to install metal roofing so you know what contractors should be doing—and can spot the ones who don't know what they're doing.
Why Metal Roofing Installation Is Different
Installing metal roofing is completely different from asphalt shingles. Metal expands and contracts with temperature. One wrong cut wastes an expensive panel. Fasteners have to go in exact spots or you get leaks.
This is why metal roofing installation costs more—and why you need pros who've done it before.
Types of Metal Roofing to Install
Standing Seam Metal Roofing
The premium option. Panels lock together with raised seams. Fasteners hide underneath so you don't see screws. This is the best way to install metal roofing—it lasts longest and looks cleanest.
Screw-Down Metal Panels
Cheaper option. Screws go through the metal into your roof deck. You see the screws. Over time, those screw holes can leak as washers wear out. Fine for sheds and barns, but standing seam is better for homes.
Metal Shingles
Look like regular shingles but made of metal. Good if you want metal durability with traditional appearance.
Step 1: Prep and Tear-Off
Before installing metal roofing, you need a clean start.
Remove old roofing. Most metal roofing goes on a clean deck. Strip off old shingles down to the wood. Some contractors say you can install over shingles—technically yes, but it's not ideal. Trapped moisture causes problems.
Inspect and repair deck. Check every piece of plywood. Replace any rotted sections. In Maryland's humidity, we usually find damage. Metal roofing is only as good as what's under it.
Fix ventilation. Metal roofs need proper ventilation more than shingles. Ridge vents and soffit vents prevent condensation in your attic.
Step 2: Install Underlayment
Never skip underlayment when installing metal roofing.
Synthetic underlayment goes over your whole roof deck. It's your backup if water somehow gets under panels.
Ice and water shield goes at the eaves and valleys. Maryland code requires this. It prevents ice dam damage and protects vulnerable spots.
Some people think metal doesn't need underlayment because it's waterproof. Wrong. Metal expands, contracts, and has fastener holes. Underlayment is your insurance.
Step 3: Install Drip Edge and Trim
Before metal panels go up, all edges need trim.
Drip edge runs around your roof perimeter. Directs water into gutters, away from your fascia.
Rake trim covers the angled edges.
Ridge caps go on last, but measure them now.
Getting trim right separates pros from amateurs. Bad trim looks terrible and creates leak points.
Step 4: Install Metal Roofing Panels
This is where experience matters most when installing metal roofing.
Measure and cut panels. Panels are custom-cut to your exact roof measurements. Every roof is different. One mistake = wasted money and delays.
Start at the eave. First panel must be perfectly straight. If it's off, every panel after is off. Use chalk lines and double-check.
Attach panels correctly:
Standing seam: Hidden clips attach to deck and allow movement. Panels snap together. No exposed screws.
Screw-down: Screws go through raised ribs (never in the flat pan where water runs). Use rubber-washered screws made for metal roofing.
Overlap properly. Panels overlap 6-12 inches depending on roof pitch. Follow manufacturer specs exactly.
Cut around vents and chimneys. This requires precision and proper flashing. Hack jobs fail here.
Step 5: Install Flashing
Flashing makes or breaks metal roofing installation.
Valley flashing directs water where roof planes meet. Has to be wide enough and sealed properly.
Chimney flashing needs counter-flashing that tucks into the chimney and overlaps panels. Multi-layered work.
Vent pipe boots for metal roofs need metal-compatible boots with EPDM rubber seals.
Butyl tape and sealant at all seams. Quality metal roofing sealants last decades. Cheap caulk fails fast.
Step 6: Install Ridge Cap
Ridge cap is the final piece when installing metal roofing.
Vented ridge caps let hot air escape while keeping weather out. Critical in Maryland's climate.
For standing seam, ridge caps snap onto the top. They're pre-bent to your roof angle.
Step 7: Final Inspection and Cleanup
Walk the roof (or get photos) to check every detail. All fasteners secure? Flashing sealed? No gaps?
Metal scraps are sharp. Good contractors use magnets to collect dropped screws. Your yard should look untouched except for your new metal roof.
How to Install Metal Roofing in Maryland Weather
Maryland's climate requires specific considerations for metal roofing installation:
Temperature swings mean metal expands and contracts a lot. Fastening systems must allow movement or panels buckle.
Snow loads in Western Maryland are serious. Install snow guards to prevent dangerous snow slides.
Humidity requires proper underlayment and ventilation to prevent condensation under metal.
Coastal salt air near Chesapeake Bay means using galvanized steel or aluminum with protective coatings.
Metal Roofing Installation Cost
In Maryland, professional metal roofing installation costs $12-$25 per square foot installed.
For a 2,000 sq ft home: $24,000-$50,000 depending on:
Standing seam vs. screw-down panels
Metal type (steel, aluminum, copper)
Roof complexity
Location in Maryland
Yes, it costs more than asphalt shingles. But you're installing a roof that lasts 40-70 years, saves energy, and never needs replacement.
How Long Does Metal Roofing Installation Take?
Professional metal roofing installation takes 3-5 days for an average Maryland home. Complex roofs take longer.
This is slower than shingles because precision matters more. Rushing metal roofing creates expensive mistakes.
Can You Install Metal Roofing Yourself?
Technically yes. Realistically? No.
Installing metal roofing requires:
Specialized tools (metal brakes, nibblers, seamers)
Experience working on roofs safely
Knowledge of metal expansion/contraction
Proper fastening techniques
Metal panels are heavy, awkward, and slippery. One slip and you're hurt or you've bent a $400 panel. Improper installation creates leaks that won't show up until you have water damage.
DIY metal roofing installation almost always costs more in the long run when you factor in mistakes, injuries, and eventual professional repairs.
Questions to Ask Metal Roofing Installers
Before hiring anyone to install metal roofing:
"How many metal roofs have you installed?" You want specific metal roofing experience, not a shingle guy trying something new.
"Standing seam or screw-down—which do you recommend?" Listen to their reasoning. They should explain pros and cons.
"What underlayment and ventilation will you install?" Vague answers are red flags.
"Can I see completed metal roofing projects?" Look for clean lines, tight flashing, professional work.
"What's your warranty on installation?" Workmanship warranties matter as much as material warranties.
Common Metal Roofing Installation Mistakes
Watch out for contractors who:
Skip underlayment ("metal doesn't need it")
Install over multiple layers of old shingles
Use wrong fasteners or put them in wrong spots
Don't account for thermal expansion
Rush flashing around penetrations
Don't improve ventilation
These mistakes lead to leaks, rust, and shortened roof life.
Bottom Line on Installing Metal Roofing
Installing metal roofing correctly requires skill, experience, and attention to detail. Done right, metal roofing lasts 40-70 years and handles Maryland weather like a champ. Done wrong, it's an expensive problem.
The process—tear-off, underlayment, trim, panels, flashing, ridge cap—must be done right at every step. No shortcuts.
Thinking about metal roofing installation for your Maryland home? Visit bvexterior.com or call us for a free consultation. We'll explain the process, answer your questions honestly, and show you what professional metal roofing installation looks like.
Because your metal roof should last 50+ years—not need repairs in 5.






